As global temperatures continue to rise, clothing companies are placing their bets on the popularity of "cooling" fabrics. This move is in response to a decline in sales for retailers, who have seen consumers prioritize essential items over optional purchases due to concerns about inflation. In light of heat waves affecting multiple continents, companies like Macy's and Columbia Sportswear are increasing their marketing efforts for "breathable" and "cooling" garments, aiming to capitalize on the growing demand for clothing that provides relief from the extreme heat.

Clothing manufacturers and sellers are placing their confidence in lightweight materials and performance fabrics that aim to provide greater relief compared to traditional cotton and polyester knits. They are also incorporating high-tech fibers that claim to offer wearers "active" cooling. According to Jess Ramirez, an analyst for Jane Hali & Associates, many of these textiles have been utilized in athletic apparel from brands like Lululemon for several years. However, as temperatures continue to rise, an increasing number of retailers are now promoting these fabrics for hot weather and expanding their offerings to include year-round styles, considering the warming winters as well.

Nevertheless, it remains uncertain whether materials marketed as cooling can effectively lower body temperature or simply enhance the wearers' comfort level.

The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists has reported that textile industry groups have developed tests to evaluate the cooling properties of fabrics, primarily by examining their ability to distribute moisture and dry quickly. However, it is important to note that there are no specific mandatory tests in place for companies to make cooling claims, and not all laboratory findings necessarily correspond to real-world usage. Roger Barker, a textiles researcher at North Carolina State University, highlighted this fact.

In addition to these developments, the rise in temperatures has also spurred advancements in "active cooling" fiber technology. This involves incorporating materials that can trap and release heat, offering a more advanced cooling effect compared to the passive cooling provided by most existing materials.

According to Barker, who leads the Textile Protection and Comfort Center at North Carolina, sweat-wicking clothing can enhance the evaporation of sweat from the body, which is a natural cooling mechanism for humans. However, there are limitations to the extent of relief provided by such passive cooling methods.

This summer, Columbia Sportswear introduced a new sweatshirt featuring their upgraded Omni-Freeze Zero Ice fabric. The fabric combines "active" technology with sweat-wicking properties and incorporates a print that is designed to absorb sweat. Haskhell Beckham, the company's Vice President for Innovation, emphasized that the development of new clothing styles suitable for hot environments will continue to be a significant focus for the company.

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A policy paper highlights the urgent need for the UK to make substantial reductions in textile waste

According to a recent policy paper, the UK government emphasizes the necessity of significantly reducing the amount of textiles that end up as residual waste in order to achieve waste targets and fulfill Net Zero commitments. The policy paper, titled "Maximising Resources, Minimising Waste," outlines the new Waste Prevention Programme for England, which establishes the priorities for managing domestic resources and waste in line with the principles of waste hierarchy, focusing on prevention and reuse.

The document further states that the government, through its Net Zero Strategy, has committed to nearly eliminating the landfilling of municipal biodegradable waste by 2028. Additionally, the Environment Act 2021 has set an environmental target to reduce residual waste (excluding major mineral wastes) per person by half by 2042.

The fashion and textiles industry is confronted with significant challenges. According to data from Quantis, this sector is estimated to contribute between 4% to 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions. The industry's complex international supply chains, spanning multiple continents, often lack transparency and traceability, adding to the challenges faced.

Promoting the reuse of products and materials brings about substantial environmental and economic benefits. A recent study, based on a life cycle assessment, examined the management of used textiles in Europe. It revealed that producing a new T-shirt has an environmental impact approximately 70 times larger than that of a reused T-shirt. The study also highlights that reusing a medium-high value T-shirt saves over 3 kg of carbon dioxide emissions.

According to the Textiles Market Situation Report by the Waste and Resources Action Programme, incorporating resale, rental, and repair services into business portfolios is a strategy that expands income streams and reduces reliance on the extraction of new materials. The report emphasizes that these approaches promote a circular economy by extending the lifespan of products.

The document further highlights the UK government's objective of encouraging more companies to offer circular products and services. This initiative aims to provide consumers with improved value while reducing waste and resource consumption.

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Tomás Saraceno's Serpentine Galleries show welcomed a diverse array of wildlife

Amid confirmation that July 2023 has become the hottest month on record worldwide, there is a growing emphasis on how London's museums are addressing the climate emergency. One promising example can be found in a recent installation by Argentinian artist Tomás Saraceno, which has evolved into a flourishing sanctuary for wildlife over the past two months.

Commissioned by a Hyde Park-based institution for their ongoing exhibition of Saraceno's artwork, the artist was tasked with creating a collection of honeycomb-like sculptures. These structures were specifically designed to provide habitats for the diverse range of wildlife inhabiting London's Kensington Gardens. They have been strategically placed throughout the Serpentine South Gallery, encompassing its facade, grounds, roof, and interior spaces.

These installations form a part of Saraceno's Cloud Cities series, a collection of suspended architectural models intended to propose innovative approaches to coexisting harmoniously with the environment.

The exhibition "Web(s) of Life," curated by Tomás Saraceno and running until September 10. The centerpiece of the exhibition is a monumental representation of spider webs created by different species. In preparation for the show, Saraceno extensively researched the various insects, birds, and mammals that inhabit the lush urban parkland surrounding the gallery. Based on this knowledge, he designed structures specifically catering to these species. Even the building's temperature is regulated to accommodate the needs of insects rather than humans.

Over the past two months, the honeycomb-like structures created by Saraceno have attracted and provided a welcoming environment for a diverse range of wildlife from Kensington Gardens.

Through his exhibition and the creation of these sanctuaries, Saraceno raises important questions about how London's wildlife will be affected by unprecedented temperatures and how the city's cultural sector should respond. Furthermore, these works can be seen as part of a broader exploration undertaken by museums worldwide, delving into how they can truly become inclusive and welcoming spaces for all.

 

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